Wait… only 1500?
That’s not just a deal… that’s a steal.
Here’s what you should watch out for…
AC compressor might go bad, and when it does, the car could feel like it’s jerking when it kicks in. It runs when you use defrost, so you’ll feel it even in winter.
Starter replacement is a nightmare. The connector is a pain to remove, and if it breaks, don’t buy from Honda or AutoZone—they charge $55 for something you can find cheap elsewhere. While you’re at it, replace all gaskets.
Ground straps? Yeah, they’ll probably need changing.
Engine mounts wear out fast. If they’re already bad, spend the $200 for decent ones. Cheap ones break quickly. If your mounts are shot, the car will shake badly over 80mph and driving at 120-130 will be unbearable.
Change all fluids regularly, especially if you drive hard. Don’t cheap out on oil—get the good stuff. Bad oil will mess with your VTEC and throw random codes that go away once the engine warms up, which will drive you crazy.
And whatever you do, replace the o-rings on the dipstick tube. If they’re bad, moisture can get into the crankcase.
@Mordecai
Appreciate this!
Takes notes
I think my engine mounts are already on their way out. When I shift from first to second, the car jumps a bit. If I accelerate out of a corner, I feel a little shake. It’s hard to explain, but I had a similar issue years ago with my old Volvo 850 T5R.
I looked up how to replace the mounts, and yeah… seems like a pretty common problem. Just need to figure out when to do it since I’ll be without a car for a couple of days.
@Bela
That shaking when you accelerate sounds like an ignition issue. How old are your spark plugs, coils, or valve adjustment?
Sonny said:
@Bela
That shaking when you accelerate sounds like an ignition issue. How old are your spark plugs, coils, or valve adjustment?
I changed the plugs a couple of months ago—went with NGK Laser Iridiums. Coils and valve adjustment? No idea. Bought the car used in August.
Doesn’t really feel like an ignition issue, though. No weirdness with the tach, and it only happens while turning.
I read that bad engine mounts in manuals can make the car feel weird. Some people even say it can pop out of gear, though mine hasn’t done that. What I have noticed is that shifting out of first or second sometimes feels like it “assists” itself—almost like once I start the shift, it finishes the job for me.
I’m planning to take it in soon for service, so I’ll have them check the coils and valve adjustment too. Just hit 99k miles, so I’m making a list of things to fix. Need this car to last.
Thinking about doing a transmission fluid change this weekend. Might as well grab those dipstick o-rings, too.
@Bela
Good call on the trans fluid. First drain and fill might not make a huge difference, but doing it twice helps a lot. If you can get AMSOIL Synchromesh, I’d go for it—it stays smooth longer than the factory stuff.
Mounts could definitely be the issue. The stock ones are way too soft. I tried the Innovative mounts (the “soft” version), but the extra vibrations were unbearable. After a year, I switched back to OEM.
@Sonny
Funny you mention that. I was just watching a video on dumb mods for daily drivers, and solid engine mounts were on the list. They said it feels great when driving hard but is miserable for daily use. Plus, your passenger won’t be thrilled.
I found some urethane mounts that might be a decent middle ground… need to dig up the link.
Trying to figure out if I can do the trans fluid change on ramps or if I need jack stands.
@Bela
I did mine on level ground with a floor jack. Tilted it down a bit to drain more, then tilted it up a little to make sure I got enough in.
I thought I could handle the “soft” aftermarket mounts, but after a year, I was over it. The car shook way too much, and the engine noise inside was ridiculous. It was actually louder inside the cabin than outside.
@Mordecai
This car can hit 120-130? I’ve never taken mine past 80… that already feels fast enough.
Oh, and another thing—
Check spark plugs, coil packs, and valve adjustment together.
Also, keep an eye on your spare tire well. Some of these leak water through the roof seams, but it’s usually an easy fix.